The Tricky Double-Breasted Suit: A Guide

There are few items of men’s clothing more classic than the double-breasted suit. Men’s fashion moves slowly, and in cycles, and the DB has not been commonly worn for at least thirty years. That said, it is enjoying a resurgence at least among more fashion-forward types, and while it hasn’t reached the average suit- or jacket-wearing man yet, I hope to help move that along.

When done right, the DB looks fantastic. With its roots in military uniform, pronounced V-shape, and generous peak lapels, it presents a rather heroic silhouette.

But the DB suit faces two basic problems. First, it is uncommon, and therefore draws attention. Because of this, it can be considered flashy—something to be avoided in one’s dress. Second, its jacket is architecturally a much more complicated garment than its single-breasted cousin, with more fabric (which wraps around the torso) and buttons, and so much harder to tailor than the single-breasted. But don’t give up.

The first thing you need to do if you want to wear a DB is to bring it to a first-rate tailor and ensure you don’t leave the shop until it fits perfectly. (As I’ve cautioned before, you cannot exclusively rely on the in-store tailor.)  The basic rules of successful tailoring apply: no excess fabric, no pulling, no bunching, no wrinkles. The key concept is “clean.”  Be especially wary of any pulling across the front when the jacket is buttoned, or any gap where the collar meets the back of your neck; these are the twin downfalls of the DB.

For the cut of the jacket, you should go with the classic “6×2” button stance, meaning there are six buttons across the front in two vertical rows of three, and the jacket buttons at the second button from the bottom. Also, the proportions of the lapels are critical, being such a prominent feature of the DB’s appearance (and appeal). The lapels should extend roughly halfway to the shoulder. (This, by the way, is the right proportion on a single-breasted jacket as well.)  If the lapels are too skinny or too wide, the overall balance will be thrown off and you will look either like a hipster (to skinny) or a clown (too wide).

The final thing to ensure is that everything else you are wearing is very plain and classic. The DB itself will draw so much attention that any other element of the ensemble that is less than discreet will put it completely over the top. That means the fabric should be solid, ideally navy or dark grey. Your shirt should be a solid white or blue. Your tie should be dark and solid, or at most with a discreet pattern. The breast pocket should have no more than a white linen handkerchief (see my article How to Wear a Pocket Square for more on pocket squares and how to wear them). Your shoes should also be discreet, ideally black or dark brown lace-ups.

Given that suits these days are generally worn in a business setting, and so should not be distracting, in many ways the DB is better suited for odd jackets (i.e., jackets worn without matching trousers, see my article Blazers, Sport Jackets and Odd Jackets Explained). In a more casual setting, such as a cocktail party, the attention that the DB elicits is more likely to be of the “fun” variety, and in such a setting you can get more creative with your choice of fabric, buttons, etc.

Wherever you wear the DB, and however well-executed, get ready for comments, some flattering, some envious, some merely curious, and, yes, some disapproving. All of them welcome—you’ve done your homework, after all.